Just Back: Croatia + Montenegro
By Meredith Fenn
I had the pleasure of visiting Croatia and Montenegro with my husband, Brendan, whose heritage stems from the city of Split. We quickly adopted the Dalmatian mindset “pomalo”, which suggests slowing down and enjoying life, as we explored the spectacular coastline by land and sea.
The surprising star of our trip was Istria. Many travelers conjure images of iconic, red-tiled roofs and the fortresses of Dubrovnik when they think of this slice of the Baltics. However, the exceptional natural beauty found in the north is an alternative to Tuscany (minus the crowds!) with a flourishing gastronomy and wine scene. One of our favorite meals was made from locally sourced ingredients including foraged wild asparagus and chicken raised on rosemary, thyme, and salty oyster shells.
To connect with nature, a visit to Dugi Otok is a must. This secluded island is home to Villa Nai 3.3, a property carved into rocky cliffs surrounded by a 500-year-old olive grove that still produces award-winning oil. We took peaceful walks through their organic farm to the coast where water lapped over starfish and sea urchins. The saltwater infinity pool was a perfect setting to sip refreshing olive leaf tea and dine on briny oysters.
Split is the shiny counterpart to Dubrovnik and encompasses a laid-back Mediterranean mentality. It boasts a vibrant coffee culture and lively art scene symbolized by the Croatian sculpture Ivan Meštrović. Explore the remains of the Diocletian Palace, dating back to 350AD, a UNESCO site and a living museum, where more than 3,000 residents currently reside. We navigated winding streets that lead to hidden squares, made from bright limestone, that displayed unexpected Egyptian relics, including a black granite sphinx.
Hvar, the Island of Lavender, is so much more than a playground for the international elite. This island is steeped in history and its main port has been restored with brilliant detail featuring the oldest theater in Europe. Resident nuns create traditional lace patterns from giant agave threads and local winemakers produce renowned Plavac Mali, made from the region's small blue grapes.
It is also essential to add Montenegro, a magical place where the mountains kiss the sea. The fairytale old town of Perast, situated in the Bay of Kotor, bursts with charm and offers short boat rides to the islets of St. George and Our Lady of the Rocks. The main promenade showcases wisteria from Japan and birds of paradise from Hawaii, brought home by sea captains.
Allow us to introduce you to the untapped alternatives beyond Europe’s oversaturated hotspots that are clean, safe, and English-speaking … you will leave planning your return.